A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

Armhole
is the opening in the shirt where your arm goes. Usually, armhole is used to express the measure from the shirt’s shoulder to its armpit, allowing to perceive the arm’s mobility when wearing the shirt. Most commonly, armholes are either “high”, meaning that the shirt has a sleeker silhouette and tight sleeves or “low” if the sleeves are baggier and allow for added mobility.

Albiate
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Albini
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Alumo
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

B

Buttons
are a shirt’s main trimmings and are responsible for securing it to our body. They can come in a variety of materials, shapes and sizes, where mother-of-pearl is the top and plastic the lowest grade.

Broadcloth
a thin, breathable and durable tight weave featuring a slight sheen. Its lighweight and thinness make it appropriate for dressier shirts.

C

Canclini
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Collar
is a specific component of the shirt that frames the neck. It is folded over itself, allowing the use of neckwear such as ties or bowties and may come in a wide range of designs. Collars have evolved through history, reflecting trends and cultures and the different models apply to a variety of occasions, from formal to casual. In what regards the application of interlinings, we offer the option of choosing between fused or non-fused/floating collars.

Collar Stays
are small strips of plastic or other more luxurious materials (silver, horn, gold), with one rounded edge and another pointy, which are meant to keep the collar looking sharp and imacculate. They are usually included in luxury shirts with wider colars and are placed underneath the collar in a specific pouch.​

Cuff
is the lower part of the sleeve which covers the wrist. They can be simple if an extra layer of fabric is sewn to the sleeve, or double (also known as French) if the fabric is folded back over itself. Button cuffs are more casual and use buttons as a fasten mechanism, whereas link cuffs are more formal and meant to be worn with cufflinks or knots.

Cuff Placket
w​hen sleeves feature tight fitting cuffs, there is the need for an additional opening before the cuff to insert the hand. That opening is usually finished with the so called cuff or sleeve placket and may have buttons to prevent the forearm from showing.

Cufflinks
are the most common way to fasten french cuffs and were originally considered to be one of the only acceptable pieces of jewelry for a man, along with a watch. The cufflink locks together both ends of the double cuff securing it in place and preventing it from opening. Cufflinks come in a variety of shapes, sizes, materials and designs.

Collar Pin
reminiscent of gentlemen of old, the collar pin is another piece of men’s jewelry meant to bring both ends of a shirt collar together. Much like a collar tab, it holds the collar in place and allows for an elevated tie knot, creating that much​.

Chambray
a particular type of End on End weaving, where the different colored warp and weft yarns create a distinct iridiscent effect.

Cotton
One of the first natural fibers to be used by Man, cotton dates back to Biblical times. The amount of varieties available and its unique characteristics, has placed cotton at the top of the most used materials in the textile industry. Most of our premium shirts are made from 100% cotton or rich cotton blended fabrics, resorting only to the most exquisite varieties known for their luxurious aspect, texture, resistance and feel.

D

Darts
back darts are stitched folds of fabric running down the back of the shirt to give it a fitted appearance and sleek silhouette. They are usually found in most slim fitting shirt to further emphasize the tailored look and slimming effect.

David & John Anderson

One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Dobby
are all the different weaving effects possible to reproduce on a fabric by using a specific loom called Dobby. Higher complexity effects are usually reffered to as Jacquard.

Dip Dye
is a process where garments are partially dipped into a contrasting color dye. As only part of the garment absorbs the dye, the remaining fabric maintains its original color, creating a unique transitioning faded effect from one shade to the next.

E

End on End
is a unique texture attained by mixing different colored threads, usually a proeminent shade combined with white. It was originally invented by the French and goes by the name “fil-à-fil”.

Embroidering
is the technique of embellishing fabrics by stitching yarns or other elements onto them. In shirtmaking, embroidery usually relates to monograms of the client’s initials or the brand’s logo or motif.

F


also reffered to as wearability, it translates the cut of the shirt and how it fits the body. We currently offer three different fits: classic, modern and slim, to accomodate all our customers’ needs.

Fly Front
when the front buttons are hidden by a flap of fabric, the shirt is called fly front. This is the most formal type of front and is usually advised for black tie events as it gives the shirt a pristine, sharp look.

Fused Collars
a shirt’s collar is comprised of two pieces, top and bottom with an interlining in between to add support and stiffness. These two pieces can be secured together either by fusing or sewing. Fused collars are made by heating the interlining and glueing it together with a fusing machine; this results in a sturdy, stiff collar which make them ideal from dress shirts.

Fully Factored Manufacturing
is a complete production model where a company sources the fabrics, develops and models its product which then goes into manufacturing. RCC is proud of working within this model.

G

Gusset
is a piece of fabric of polygonal shape which is inserted into seams for added resistance at particular points subject to stress. They are usually triangular and can be found at the hemline seam where the shirt’s front and back panels meet.

Giza 45 Cotton
One of the extra long staple (36.0 mm) Egyptian cottons, the Giza 45 is renowned for having the finest  fibers of all varieties. However, it still produces highly resistant fabrics with a silky-smooth feel.

Giza 87 Cotton
One of the extra long staple (35.1 mm) Egyptian cottons, the Giza 87 is renowned for the high brightness of its fibers. Although similar to Giza 45 in fiber length, the resulting fabrics present lower stretching and resistance.

Giza 88 Cotton
One of the extra long staple (35.0mm) Egyptian cottons, the Giza 88 has the highest production of all, being the most suitable to produce yarns thanks to its combination of resistance, brightness and texture.

Gingham
originally a striped pattern from Malaysia, gingham later evolved into its checked nature upon being imported to Europe.

H

Hang Loop
as the name states, this strip of fabric located at the shirt’s back was originally meant to leave it hanging on closet hanger hooks. This is believed to be an American heritage reminiscent of college life and is usually associated with casual shirts such as oxford cloth button downs.

Hem
is the lower end of the shirt where the fabric is sewn over itself to prevent it from tearing apart. There are several models of hemlines that serve different purposes: for instance, a shirt with a short, straight hemline is appropriate to wear untucked whereas a business shirt usually has a long curved hemline which is better to tuck it in.

Herringbone
creates a unique zigzag effect by reversing a diagonal pattern in equal width bands. The name comes from the pattern’s resemblance to the herring’s skeleton.

I

No definitions!

J

No definitions!

K

No definitions!

L

Long and Extra Long Staples
Staple refers to the length of cotton fibers. Long staple fibers measure over 33.0 mm and are stronger, more expensive and luxurious than shorter staple cottons. Egyptian, Sea Island and Pima cottons are known for their long staples.

M

Monogram
is the combination of two or more letters, usually portraying the client’s initials, which is then embroidered onto the shirt. They can be featured in a variety of places within the shirt, use different fonts and contrasting color threads for extra visual impact.​

Monti
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Mother-of-Pearl
is a composite material produced by some molusks to use as inner shell. It is a resistant and iridescendent material, producing different efects according to the light. Considered to be the best choice for luxury short buttons.​

N

Non-Fused Collars
a shirt’s collar is comprised of two pieces, top and bottom with an interlining in between to add support and stiffness. These two pieces can be secured together either by fusing or sewing. Non-fused collar are made by meticulously stitching the interlining together as done traditionally by tailors; this results in a softer, more comfortable collar which is also more resistant.

Needle Table
as the name states this table allows for the application of several needles and is a crucial part of manufacturing a perfectly balanced premium shirt. It allows for a perfect alignment of the shirt’s raport/pattern on its individual components, ensuring a paramount final product.

O

Oxford Cloth
the epytome of casual, relaxed shirts, oxford cloth owes its name to the British city of Oxford where it was worn by college students. It’s heavier and more resistant than most fabrics, and usually features a colored fine warp against a wider white weft, resulting in a basket weave effect. Perfect for casual button down shirts.

Overdyeing
originallyyarn threads come in natural or raw and are later dyed to achieve specific coloring. Overdyeing is a technique where the dyeing process is repeated several times so the garment conveys a unique look and feel.

P

Premium Shirt
is a luxury shirt made using only the finest fabrics and trimmings, whilst incorporating outstanding attention to detail. Such a high-end shirt is only achievable through extensive know-how and experienced craftsmen.

Placket Front
on a shirt front, the placket reverts to the edge of the overlapping left panel with the buttonholes in it. It is often comprised of more than one layer of fabric with interlining in between, for added support and resistance when worn. On a placket front shirt, the placket is a separate piece all together.

Plain/French Front
when there is no separate placket element on the shirt front, the edge of the fabric is folded over and creased being held together simply by the button holes. This gives the shirt a cleaner look and is a more formal approach. 

Pleats
back pleats are meant to better adapt the shirt to the shape of its wearer’s back. As the human back is not plain, pleats allow the fabric to drape better over the back. Box pleats are located at the center back, whereas side pleats are placed towards the edges of the shirt. Although common in ready-to-wear alternatives, custom made shirts should be able to fit perfectly without the need for pleats which make the shirt more casual and busy at the back.

Pocket
shirts may include one or two chest pockets according to their model. It is usually associated with more relaxed shirts, although some business versions do carry a left chest pocket. Dual chest pockets relate to workwear and are usually sported in cowboy / denim shirts.

Ply

is the amount of yarns which are twisted together to make a single thread. Fabrics can be single-ply, two-ply or three-ply depending if one, two or three yarns are twisted together to make a single thread which is then woven into the fabric. Usually, higher ply counts mean higher quality fabrics.

Poplin
Also known as tabinet, it is one the most traditional weaves used in dress shirts, dating back to the 1960s. Poplin weave features a 1/2 ratio between weft picks and warp ends. It produces rigid fabrics which do not wrinkle easily and make it easy to iron.

Piquet
is a double faced cotton cloth characterized by raised weaving effects. This gives it a perforated feel with added breathability.

Pinpoint Oxford
is similar to the traditional oxford but with a finer yarn and tighter weave. It’s between broadcloth and oxford when it comes to weight and formality.

Panama
is reminiscent from a plain weave but in this case warp and weft threads are crossed in pairs, two picks and two ends. The result is a unique weave resembling that found on Panama straw hats.

Q

Quintessential
a commonly used term when it comes to custom made or bespoke garments, it means to embody the purest essense of something, to be its perfect representation.

R

Royal Oxford
although bearing the same name as the abovementioned, Royal Oxford is in a league of its own when it comes to high-end fabrics. It features great texture, shine and softness and the use of fine yarns such as 80s or 100s make it perfect for elegant dress shirts with a regal feel.

Rich Blends
Although most of our luxury fabrics are 100% cotton, there are a few alternatives which combine other natural or synthetic fibres to suit particular purposes or give the shirt a certain feel. These are called rich blends and include combinations of cotton and: linen (breathability), nylon/lycra (stretching), satin (cerimonial) or silk (lightweight and softness).

S

Sleeve
is the part of the shirt attached to the armhole which covers the arm up to the cuff. Sleeves width vary according to the shirt’s fit, being wider in the “Classic” model and tighter in the “Slim Fit” version. Sleeves can also be long or short, although short sleeve shirts are only acceptable in very casual scenarios, whereas long sleeves are an all rounder.

Sic-Tess
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Somelos
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Supima Cotton
Is grown in West/South-West areas of the United States and represents the go to choice for white fabric shirts. Due to residual pollution levels in this area, Supima cotton fibers are much more pristine than their counterparts, making them perfect for use in white fabrics.

Sea Island Cotton
It is the longest staple cotton (reaching up to 39.0 mm) and can be found in top-quality shirting fabrics. Sea Island cotton is sourced from the West Indies and processed manually so as not to ruin the fibers.

Single-Needle
is a type of fine seam using only one line of stitching, which gives it a more polished look for dress shirts. However, in some of the shirt’s stress points this type of stitching is less resistant than its double counterpart.

T

Takihyo-Maruwa
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Thread
is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine embroidery.

Thread Count
is the number of hanks per pound of fabric: 1 hank = 840 yards is the number of threads woven together in a square inch of fabric and can be identified by the numbers that accompany the fabric’s reference, such as 50s, 80s, 100s, etc. Usually, higher thread counts result in silkier, smoother, higher quality fabrics which accounts for the increase in price.

Thomas Mason
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC.

Thomas Mason Bespoke
One of the world’s top leading mills and premium supplier of outstanding fabrics to RCC, dedicated to our MTM service.

Twill
is easily recognized by its distinct diagonal pattern. The parallel lines are accomplished by crossing the weft threads over and under the warp threads. Due to this type of construction, twill fabrics drape well.

Tie and Dye
is a dyeing process where the fabric is folded into a specific pattern and tied with rubber bands. Dye in then applied only to some parts of the fabric, allowing for an uneven effect as the dye is unable to penetrate the tied portions. Several colors may be applied to create one of a kind patterns.

Twin-Needle
a more resistant type of seam using double stitching lines, which despite not portraying such a clean look makes the shirt more durable.

U

No definitions!

V

Voile
a very light, translucent fabric mostly used in more fashionable garments. Its open, breathable feel is the result of twisting the yarns together very tightly.

W

Warp
fabrics consist in a web of threads running vertically and horizontally. Warp is the name given to the vertical threads.

Weft
fabrics consist in a web of threads running vertically and horizontally. Weft is the name given to the horizontal threads.

Washes
in order to create unique textures and feel, we offer a variety of washes that tweak fabrics in unique ways. Softening, distressing, or crinkling are some of the effects we are able to create, always while ensuring minimal shrinkage.

Worn-Out Effects
We are able to give our shirts different types of worn-out effects, resorting to several techniques such as particular washes, placed grinding and abrasion. Doing it by hand allows us to accurately determine which areas to distress, in order to achieve a unique result according to the client’s liking.

Weaving
is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

X

No definitions!

Y

Yoke
is the part of a shirt’s back which stretches across the shoulders. Most shirts present a single yoke, meaning that only one piece of fabric is used. However, luxury or custom made shirts often present the option of a split yoke, meaning that the yoke is actually made from two separate pieces of fabric, joint at an angle at the center of the shoulder line. This allows for added comfort and mobility, since the biased fabric moves along with each individual shoulder.

Yarn
is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking.

Z

No definitions!